Diners want to be shipwrecked at the Sheraton’s Coral Reef

Island dining with Helen Reed

KAANAPALI — Gilligan’s Island, Treasure Island, Donovan’s Reef — AII fictional isles where ships have run aground, but right here on Maui there’s a reef you don’t want to miss. It’s the Sheraton Maui’s own Coral Reef Restaurant, and what a place to be shipwrecked!
     The Coral Reef Restaurant, designed in a style reminiscent of old Hawaii, foregoes walls for sweeping views of the Kaanapali coastline, with swaying coconut palms along lush garden paths, and where each table overlooks the 142-yard, lava rock freshwater lagoon. With its gentle current, this sparkling stream meanders past color­ful koi ponds, under wooden bridges and through gardens surrounding the restaurant — it’s sheer tropical ambience!
     The Sheraton Maui sits on legendary Pu’u Keka’a — the fabled Black Rock that rises dark and regal from the sea, and where each sunset greets the evening with its nightly torch lighting and spectacular cliff diving ceremony that enthralls adults and children alike.
     Surely, the Coral Reef emerges natural­ly from these lush surroundings, and its culinary offerings showcase all the exotic flavors of the islands.   Under the superb guidance of Food and Beverage Director and Executive Chef Bryan Ashlock, a new menu has been cre­ated that features fresh island fish in the most elegant style imaginable.
     “We have the widest variety of fresh fish available anywhere on ~ said Chef Ashlock, “and our guests can choose from ten styles of preparations.”
     As the son of a military father, Chef Ashlock was born in Toule Rosieres en Hayes, France, and moved to Honolulu in 1969. After graduat­ing from Oahu’s Kapiolani Community College, Chef Ashlock’s culinary career began 24 years ago as an eager chef apprentice at the Sheraton Waikiki, serving as representative for all appren­tices in the industry throughout the Hon­olulu District. He graduated three years later at the top of his class.
     His career continued with the Sheraton Hong Kong and other company resorts, with a collective total of nine years at the Sheraton Maui. He’s won many awards and accolades along the way.
     Presently, Ashlock oversees the whole kitchen operation as well as the Coral Reef, the Teppan Yaki Dan restaurant, the Keka’a Terrace restaurant, two bars, a lounge, a beachside snack shop and ban­quet facilities — a full plate, so to speak.
     “I was greatly inspired by my mother,” said Ashlock. “She was a great cook and was always baking something delicious.”
     The inspiration certainly shines through with his artful appetizer presentations — each one a treasure to behold!
     His signature “Pearl of the Pacific” is Neptune’s offering in a beautifully sculp­tured sphere of ice hallowed out to hold gems of chilled Blue Water Prawns, glis­tening Keawe Smoked Scallops and thin­ly sliced Seared Ahi Sashimi. cleverly formed like a rose.
     Bryan’s Carpaccio is translucent with ahi slices spread over a large plate — a perfect likeness of a sunburst surrounding a red plum tomato stuffed with Upcountry greens. The Volcanic Ahi, served in an envelope of baked phyllo dough, is simi­lar to a miniature Haleakala with Cajun spices erupting from its summit.
     Oyster fans will relish the ultimate Chilled Oysters served on the Half Shell on a bed of fresh Spinach Florentine, topped with a Lemongrass Beurre Blanc and accompanied with lemon, cocktail sauce, Tobasco and rock salt.
     From their lengthy selection of island fish, onaga, opakapaka, ono, ahi, mahi mahi, opah, monghong, uku, etc., there is a multi-cultural selection of preparation meth­ods to ensure the diner of a customized seafood experience not soon to be forgotten.
     One of the innovative selections is A La Oscar, consisting of the fish sauteed and draped with Alaskan King Crag Legs, fresh Maalaea Asparagus finished with a Bernaise sauce, and Parisienne potatoes. The Florentine selection is fish sauteed lightly in olive oil and laid on a bed of fresh creamed spinach, laced with Bechamel sauce then tossed with pine nuts and served with Herbed Rice Pilaf. And the Stuffed Catch is filled with Dun­geness Crab mousse and served with a Chili Pepper Wasabi Beurre Blanc and Parsley Potatoes.
     Any method you choose will be a sure winner.
     Seafood devotees should treat their palate to the Seafood Lau Lau: Neptune’s combi­nation of shrimp, scallops and fresh catch marinated in a Ginger Citric Aioli and steamed on a bed of fresh spinach wrapped in a ti leaf and served with Rice Pilaf.
     Meat lovers are not forgotten — the Full Rack of Lamb is pan-roasted, rubbed with a Macadamia Nut Pesto and served with a Medley of Beans and Rice Pilaf, while the Steak and Lobster Combo is always an excellent choice. The delectable, sweet buttery flavor of the Black Angus Filet Mignon with fluted mushroom paired with a succulent Half Lobster Tail with Herbed Parsley Potatoes is certain to please the dedicated diner.
     The attention to detail on the dinner plates is impressive. The red new potatoes are scooped out to hold a potato stem, resembling a potato mushroom; the center of a thick zucchini slice is hallowed to hold a bouquet of tender asparagus. All vegetables, it appears, have been careful­ly trimmed and sculptured to enhance each entree. Chef Ashlock has crafted his culinary masterpieces with sheer artistry.
     “The difference between a cook and a chef,” said Ashlock, “is a chef eats with his eyes. I admire the Chinese and Japanese for what they do with food —small portions, beautifully displayed, knowing presentation is the key.”
     He also grows his own “Ruby Red Dragon,” a Vietnamese plant that occa­sionally bears what he considers one of the “best fruits in the world.” He uses them for special food presentations cut into cylinders, fans and shingles to use as garnish on the serving plates.
     For the perfect ending to your dining experience, give in to the temptation of Grandma’s Hot Apple Pie! Each pie is individually prepared table side from the griddle to your plate. Served with a scoop of Macadamia nut ice cream melting over the hot apple delicacy, it doesn’t get any fresher or better than this!
     No matter what choices you select from the splendid menu, you’ll be pleased with the finest cuisine Maui has to offer.
     Remember, you don’t have to become shipwrecked to discover a tropical par­adise. It’s right here at Kaanapali Beach, at the Coral Reef Restaurant in the Shera­ton Maui. For reservations, call 662-8053.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 8/9/2000 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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