Hawaiiana is at the heart of the Sea House

Island dining with Helen Reed

NAPILI — Those of us blessed to live on Maui often take its natural beauty for granted. So, for a reminder of tropical splendor in every sense of the word, visit The Sea House Restaurant at Napili Kai Beach Club — for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It doesn’t matter. It’s all there!
     The unparalleled view is one of the best on Maui — a panoramic scene of oyster white sand beach, sparkling turquoise sea, swaying palms (the whole tropical bit that tourists tead about).
     Nestled just off the beach at Napili Bay, one step off the stone path, and you’re on the sand — a few steps further and you’re wading in the cool Pacific. It’s called ocean front dining at its best!
     The restaurant is open to the sea with the rear lava rock enclosure covered with lush ferns and delicate orchids growing right outta the wall!
     To further enhance this Hawaiiana, Scott Kealoha Lutey, a Maui boy who graduated with culinary degrees from Hilo and Kapiolani Community Colleges, the latter where he was acclaimed “student of the year,” is the restaurant’s executive chef!
     “I first worked as sous chef at the Maui Marriott for four years and have been here for the last five years,” said Chef Lutey, smiling.
     Is there more? Yes! In typical Maui family-oriented tradition, Chef Lutey is a third generation employee of Napili Kai Beach Club.
     “My grandfather was one of the first gardeners, and my grandmother was the restaurant’s hostess. She played the ukulele and sang in the Friday night shows. My mom, Gwen Liliano, is the PBX operator of the club.”
     Another loyal employee of the Sea House is Verna Biga, the pre­sent food and beverage manager, who started 16 years ago as pantry cook, becoming kitchen manager/chef and executive sous chef during those years.
     The Sea House opened as the Tea House of the Maui Moon in March 1962. Not too many Maui restaurants can claim that longevity, 36 years!
     “Growing up I was exposed to the many cultural cuisines of Hawaii,” said Lutey. “Filipino, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, American. My culinary experience has been shaped by many other chefs who were generous enough to share their knowledge and experience with me. My wife, Rana, and my mother have constantly supported me and pushed me to do my best.”
     Providing even more local color, Chef Lutey and his mother, Gwen, revised the menu using authentic Hawaiian captions for the entrees.
     Aloha Kakahiaka (good morning). Start your day from the Kapuahi and the Lmu (griddle and the oven) Menu with new items, such as Poached Eggs Napili Kai — served on toa~ted English muffin topped with hollandaise sauce with choice of crab and spinach, Canadian bacon and fresh turkey breast or chicken sausage.
     Not that hungry? Try Wai, Pua and Kope (juice, fruit and coffee).
     “The lunch menu has been completely changed,” said Lutey. “The Kai Club House is seared mahi and smoked bacon instead of the usual turkey and barn.”
     For delicious pupus, try the “A Taste of Lahaina” 1997 award-winning Crisp Pacific Rim Sushi, with white rice, crab and avocado rolled in non, then in a macadamia nut crust served with red Thai curry sauce.
     Other pupus deserving of awards are the Alii Pupu, coconut-macadamia nut shrimp, chicken skewers and wontons; Kai Al Mea Ai, a crab, shrimp cake, sauteed or blackened; or the Olapa Ahi, ahi wrapped in non, rolled in tempura batter, quick-fried and served rare with a wasabi ball tucked inside a sculptured carrot rose — it’s a meal in itself.
     Speaking of awards, since 1987, Chef Lutey has won culinary awards every year in various categories.
     “The Makawao Salad started off as a topping for fish, then it progressed into the dish you’re tasting,” offered Lutey.
     Oh, such diverse flavors!
     The salad combines baby spinach, Maui onions, feta cheese and shiitake mushrooms topped with proscuitto­wrapped tiger prawns— the prosciutto ham keeping the huge shrimp moist with smoky flavor.
     The Mikana Moa Salad is a mountain of chicken breast, really fresh wild greens and fresh papaya, all nestled in a clever edible asiago cheese basket. Chef Lutey featured the dish when he made a guest appearance on Channel 2 News.
     “The Hoisin Filet was created, because I was bored with the regular grilled filet,” said Lutey. ‘This filet has a Pacific Rim flavor, and then I combined it with a saf­fron risotto and a demi sauce.”
     Besides the thick Hoisin-Plum Filet Mignon being sweet flavored and tender as we expected, the risotto was “outta­your-mind” smooth and creamy.
     Two chicken breasts with baby spinach perched on a succulent porte­bella mushroom slice, mounted on a garlic mashed potato mound comprises the Moa entree. Brilliant yellow Poha Berry Vinaigrette compliments the beautiful presentation.
     Fresh fish is served nightly with five different preparations: Macadamia nut crusted, Hawaiian Breeze, Pacific Cajun Spice, La Meuniere and a broiled fish with a complimenting sauce that changes nightly.
     We indulged in the la Meuniere selec­tion — onaga sauteed in a butter, cream, champagne sauce with the pun­gency of capers accentuating the heav­enly sauce.
     Hawaiian contemporary music is played nightly from 7 to 9 p.m. During the month of August, all dinners are two-for-one between 5:30 and 6 p.m. with the coupon found in this week’s Lahaina News.
     “Napili Kai Beach Club is constantly involved with the community with charity walks, road clean-up and the Napili Kai Foundation,” said Lutey.
     This non-profit foundation was started in 1965 by Jack, Margaret and Dot Millar, founders of the hotel.
     The goal is to perpetuate Hawaiiana and instill pride of their ancestry in the chil­oren by teaching the history, arts, crafts, language, dances and the flora, fauna and lore of Hawaii.
     Every Friday night since 1965, more than 30 children perform hula on the Sea House Restaurant stage, each hula telling its own unique story.
     The motto of the restaurant is “Aloha Ia ‘oukou i ko makou hale. E nanea na mea ‘ai’ok’ a o Hawai’i nei. E noho maila a e walea ‘ia i ka moe ‘ana iho o ka la (Bringing the flavors and culture of Hawaii to the menu, so that you may enjoy a little taste of aloha while watch­ing the rolling surf and beautiful sunsets of Napili Bay)
     Experience the Hawaiiana for yourself. For reservations, call 669-1500.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 8/12/1998 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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Sea House dining a tropical, Hawaiian experience

Island dining with Helen Reed

NAPILI -- Have you ever dreamed of din­ing in a natural tropical setting, in a God-created location with no frills or fake scenery -- just nature’s own Hawaii?
     Well, you’ll be thrilled to discover an authentic island paradise at the Sea House Restaurant at Napili Kai Beach Resort.
     Tucked into a corner of beautiful Napili Bay, the Sea House is an extension of the pristine white sand beach, fringed with rustling palms and just steps away from the sparkling sea. In fact, when there’s a south swell, waves splash nearly to the entrance of the building.
     To further enhance this natural Hawai­iana, the comfortable dining area is open to the sea, with the rear lava rock enclosure covered with lush ferns and delicate orchids growing right out of the wall!
     When all this natural beauty is com­bined with a menu to match the view, you’ll know you’ve found a little corner of the real Hawaii.
     Award-winning Executive Chef Michael Gallagher Jr., known for his flair of creativ­ity and elegant simplicity, won the presti­gious “Unipro Cully Award” and many oth­ers. Yet, he modestly gives full credit to his fine kitchen crew.
     “I’ve been with the Sea House for the past five years, and we have one of the most experienced and cre­ative kitchen crews on the island. Our sous chefs, Tony Salvador and Marilyn Cabania, have worked all over Maui for great chefs and have a combined 30-pIus years of culi­nary knowledge between them. We have no egos, no superstars, just a team of veterans. This ensures a quality product.”
     “Napili Kai has created a great working environment for us, which makes it fun to come to work,” Gallagher continued.  “Most employees have worked here for years. I know Verna Biga, our Food and Beverage manager, has been here for 20 years! Not many restaurants can keep their employees that long.”
     Born in New Jersey, Gallagher lost his father at a very young age. “I’m the oldest of four brothers, and when my mother had to go to work, she taught me to cook for my brothers -- simple things like meatloaf, fish and spaghetti,” he laughed. “I would say the world’s greatest chefs are mothers. My mother and grandmother were my biggest influence in becoming a chef.”
     Gallagher started at age 13 washing dishes and peeling potatoes, then, over the years, began working with excellent chefs -- German, Italian, Swiss -- and spent a total of eight years with Marriott Resorts. He even trained students from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, during their internship at the Maui Marriott.
     As we dined, we sensed the restaurant’s cheerful ambiance. As for the cuisine, each dish we sampled was quality. From the Crab Avocado Salad, with vine-ripened tomatoes from Waylo -- tomatoes that taste the way tomatoes should -- served with Spicy Citrus Salsa, to Tempura Petite Lob­ster Somen Noodle Salad using Chilean cold water lobster, everything was just delectable.
     The “A Taste of Lahaina” award-win­ning Crisp Pacific Rim Sushi (also known as a California Roll ) was huge with white rice, crab and avocado rolled in non, then in a crispy Macadamia nut crust and served with a tangy red Thai curry sauce. It carried a pleasing wallop!
     For a most remarkable pupu, try the Maine Lobster Scampi over an Italian Asiago Croustade -- such a taste sensation of juicy lobster chunks with Asiago cheese!
     An impressive golden sunburst is how the Crab Stuffed Portabella Mush­room appears with roasted garlic boursin cheese butter sauce, topped with orange tabiko caviar sheltering the lush crab meat.  Cut into four wedges, it’s as beautiful to gaze upon as it is to taste.
     When it comess to dinner entrees, Steak “Gallagher,” the Chefs Signature Dish, certainly deserves the raves it elicits from pleased patrons. It’s a large choice Kansas City Black Angus tenderloin, shi­itake pepper-crusted and pan seared in a delectable Maui Onion Irish Whiskey sauce. It is so succulent and fork-tender, you’ll be raving, too.
     “I have dozens of lamb recipes I’d like to use, but the most requested is our time-test­ed Seasoned Rack of Lamb with Cabernet Sauce, so I stay with that one,” Gallagher laughed.
     Small wonder with each savory bite so aromatic after marinating over night in olive oil, rosemary and black pepper.
     Veal Fanciers would dig the Veal Marsala with really tender Scalloppine of Strauss Veal, sautéed with sun-dried cherry, caramelized shallot marsala sauce -- anoth­er choice selection.
     The Sea House utilizes only the finest and freshest fish found in Hawaiian waters, with a variety of six tempting preparations to choose from. All are accompanied with Fresh Garden Vegetables and your choice of the Chefs Potato of the Day or Jasmine and Thai Rice with a hint of Coconut and Ginger. A distinctive potato preparation is used each evening, and we were rortunate to have pale green Pesto Whipped Mashed Potatoes -- a flavor treat to say the least.
     By the way, herbs used in each dish are grown in Gallagher’s own herb garden behind the restaurant.
     For a light, refreshing dessert, try the Mango Tart Tatin in Puff Pastry the Brandy Chocolate and Strawberry Sauce combination is sheer magic made from whole fresh strawberries.
     “We participate in many charitable activ­ities every year, such as ‘Taste of bbaina,’ the Charity Walk, but most of all we have the Napili Kai Foundation,” said Gallagher.
     “The foundation started in 1965 by Jack, Margaret and Dot Millar, founders of the resort. The sole purpose of the non-profit Napili Kai Foundation is dedicated to teaching our children, here on Maui, the ancleiit Hawaiian dance and culture and instill in them pride in their ancestry. I can’t wa’it to see my four-year-old twin daugh­ters, Kelly and Alana, dancing up there next year.
     We’ve attended many of these delightful Friday Night Keiki (children) Hula Dinner Shows and recommend taking the whole family to this ever-popular event. Reserva­tions are a must.
     So, when you dream of fine dining in a truly tropical island location, drive to the Sea House Restaurant. The seascape is never more beautiful than at dusk -- the moment of silence prevaile’~as the torches are lit and the sun sets into the sea between Molokai and Lanai. It’s a magical moment.
     Find the Sea House on the beach at Napili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Road. It’s a tropical dining dream come true!
     For Reservations, call 669-1500.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 10/5/2000 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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