Steak house has legacy of excellence

Island dining with Helen Reed

LAHAINA — Hallelujah! At last the auspicious Ruth’s Chris Steak House has opened in West Maui, and what a splashy affair it was!                     
     Not only was the founder of the chain, Ruth Fertel herself, in attendance at the grand pre-opening invitational dinners but also former U.S. Vice President Dan Quayle, Oahu and Maui Franchise Owner open the steak Randy Schoch, General Manager Curt Wheeler, plus the elite business leaders of Maui as well.  Why, even Mayor Linda Lingle, attended the festivities.  
     But after all the hoopla is over, what about the fellow behind the scene, orchestrating and producing the hundreds of delectable dinners?  Let’s hear it for Executive Chef James Boynes!
     Michigan-born Boynes began his illus­trious career at age 15 while going to high school.
     “I was inspired working with chefs who had graduated from Hyde Park’s Culinary Institute of America in New York, so I decided to attend the same school and pursue a culinary career,” said Boynes.
     After graduating, he worked for five years in New York restaurants, including the Beckman Arms Inn in Rhinebeck, New York.
     “It is the oldest continuously operating inn in America, established in 1777.  Why, George Washington even ate there, ”he said.
     For seven years he was the West Coast Corporate Chef for Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Phoenix, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills and Palm Desert, then became their general manager in Honolulu for three years.
     “I returned to the Mainland for two years, but missed Hawaii so much I had to return,” he said with a laugh.  “And just in time to open the steak house here in Lahaina.”
     General Manager Curt Wheeler came directlyfrom Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Palm Desert, California, where he served as general manager for five years.
      “I am thrilled to be here and to be part of the restaurant com­munity” said Wheeler.
     Ruth Fertel is a power house lady. In 1965 she was a single mom who mortgaged her home and, with no restau­rant experience, bought a little steak house in New Orleans where, according to public relations person Elissa Josephsohn, Ruth had “the hands-on experience.”
     “Ruth was in the kitchen in that first restaurant, cutting the meat herself,” said Josephsohn. 
     Now there are 65 Ruth’s Chris Steak Houses in cities across the U.S. and aboard, making it the largest fine-dining restaurant chain in the country!
     .  . . and speaking of fine dining, you’ll certainly experience it here in plush elegance, with red leather booths, white linen, crystal, silver and easy jazz playing softly in the background. All this and an ocean view.
     We started with Barbecued Shrimp pupus sauteed New Orleans style in white wine, butter, garlic and zingy spices that primed the taste buds for the tangy mush­rooms stuffed with crab meat. One can also savor more spicy New Orleans homestyle sauce with shrimp cocktail or their classic Creole Shrimp Remoulade. Shrimp never had it so good.
     I know. . , you want to hear about the steaks, right? After all, it is a steak house.
     “We use only the finest, custom-aged U.S. prime Midwestern beef,” said Owner Randy Schoch. “We cut it by hand to a thickness that preserves its juices and fla­vor during cooking.”
     The huge Ribeye we shared just glis­tened with juiciness and flavor. “We broil it exactly the way you like it at 1,800 degrees to lock in that corn-fed flavor,” explained Chef Boynes.
     We next sampled the Filet Mignon that was generously cut and broiled to a melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, Same conclu­sion — Ruth’s Chris Steak House knows its steak! But while in awe of the steak, let’s not forget this steak house also serves sensational fresh seafood. The enormous grilled swordfish we tasted had an exceed­ingly rich, buttery, fork-tender texture.
     All types of potatoes are offered, from garlic mashed to loaded baked one-pounders. We chose the Au Gratin, served in cream sauce and topped with melted sharp cheddar. Potato lovers will salute this one — again, large enough to be shared by two.
     It comes down to this —everything served at Ruth’s Chris Steak house is mammoth!
     It states on the menu, “We serve you portions generous enough to share because part of the fun of enjoying great food is enjoying it together.” The traditional favorites of New Orleans cuisine are printed in red on the menu, and many of the recipes were developed by Ruth Fettel herself.
     Dressings for the crisp salads include New Orleans-inspired Blue Cheese, Remoulade and Creole French, with the inspiration extending to the dessert list as well.
     Each dessert is made right on the premises. Try Chocolate Praline Encore — sinfully rich and creamy, combining the sweetness of southern pecan pie with bittersweet chocolate cream on a buttery crust, topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings for only $5.50.
     The Creme Brulee is the classic Creole egg custard topped with fresh benies and mint.  And how about a traditional New Orleans favorite, Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce.  I don’t think Maui has served that one before.
     To accompany dinner, the steak house offers a selection of really fine wines and all types of exotic coffees are available. After dinner liqueurs, rare cognacs and fine whiskeys are available to finish off your meal in style.
     This classy steak house, with its siz­zling steaks for serious steak lovers, is a welcome addition to Maui’s fine dining scene. To experience the legacy of dining excellence, call Ruth’s Chris Steak House for reservations, 661-6815.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 9/9/1998 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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