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Outback features mammoth dishes in a fun atmosphere

 

Island dining with Helen Reed 

KAHANA“G’Day. mate. How ya going — ooright?”
     That could very well be the 7’ cheery greeting you hear when you enter the new Outback Steakhouse in Kahana Gateway. Envision crocodiles, kangaroos, koala bears, kook­aburras and boomerangs —the Outback has everything Aussie but mossies (mos­quitoes).
     The Australian-influenced restaurant chain — founded in l9~8 and inspired by the movie “Crocodile Dundee” — now boasts 450 Outbacks in the United States and 17 interna­tionally.
     General partners of Maui’s Outback include Ed Wary, owner of three popular restaurants in Honolulu Roy Yamaguchi owner of Roy’s Restaurants in Hawaii, Japan and the Mainland; and Shep Gordon, our own restaurant entrepreneur.
     The subtle decor is suggestive of a huge rustic ranch house located in the vast Australian outback, with Aussie memorabilia decorating the walls. Highway warning signs include Kangaroos next 15 KM, Wombats (possums) next 10 KM, and Mossies next 5 KM.
     “We want our guests to find a cheerful, comfortable atmosphere and experience our intense desire to please them,” offered genial proprietor Jim Wagner, who comes to the islands with 24 years experience in the restaurant industry, most recently with the high-volume Outback in Northern California.
     “Customers are invited to enjoy any­thing they want prepared anyway they like it.”
     The old axiom “attitude is more impor­tant than aptitude” holds forth here.
     “We would rather. hire someone strong in personality and lacking in experience than the other way around,” said Manager Tom Mann, who relocated to Maui from Honolulu, where he man­aged the first Outback in Hawaii.
     Personality, charm and energy permeate the large dwelling. LARGE is the keyword here — large wooden booths, large tables, large plates and even huge steak knives and I mean huge!
     “Even our ‘Big Beer Blokers’ are 22-ounce,” laughed Tom.
     “The recipes on our menu were created by the Outback founder, Tim Gannon,” said Kitchen Manager Danny Warren. “We use the same menu in all the Outbacks, but we do have a couple of items here unique to Hawaii.”
     Warren. hails from Bakersfield, California, where he first became associ­ated with the Outback and moved to Hawaii after being offered the assistant kitchen manager spot on Oahu. He has now met his goal of having his own kitchen, taking over the culinary opera­tion on Maui.
     And what an awesome responsibility that is, delighting guests daily with incredible flavors, mammoth presenta­tions and ‘just right” temperatures of the food, all meticulously prepared in their kitchen.
     You’ll enjoy reading the menu — it’s an Aussie phrase book! “Aussie­Tizers” are pupus. (“Start your tucker (food) off with one of these wonders from Down Under.”)
     We started with their signature pupu, the fabulous Bloomin’ Onion. It resem­bles a tan porcupine — and just about as large!
     “It’s one whole pound of onion, twice breaded and fried to a beautiful bloom,” said Mann.
     With mayonnaise horseradish sauce served in the center, it’s a sight to behold and, of course, huge! It’s a must-try “Aussie-tizer” for sure!
     Ribs on The Barbie are imported baby back ribs, smoked and grilled so tender the meat just falls off the bones! Likewise with the moist, Botany Bay Fish 0’ The Day — swordfish so fork-tender it ren­dered a knife useless.
     The thick, lean, succulent 14-ounce Rack of Lamb was grilled exactly to our specification and served with superb Australian Cabernet sauce. We would order it again and again. These cooks really know what they are doing.
     Their “Fair Dinkum” Land Rover steaks are genuine USDA cuts ranging from Victoria’s 9-ounce filet to the Melbourne, a 20-ounce porterhouse. The Prime Minister’s Prime Rib is offered in cuts of 8, 12 or 16 ounces, each one so beautifully presented we eyed every entree being served. After devouring one of these Land Rovers, you’ll be as Full-As-A-Bull’s-Bum!
     Someone in your party should order the Alice Springs Chicken — a mammoth mound of melted Monterey Jack and Cheddar Cheese, abounding in mush­rooms, completely smothers a perfectly grilled chicken breast. Served with a homey mustard sauce, it must be seen to be believed!
     And where else on Maui can one order Jackeroo Chops, consisting of not one but two 8-ounce center cut pork chops served with cinnamon apples and a baked potato for only $14.49?
     We were privileged to attend a pre-opening dinner party and again sampled more of the wondrous choices on the menu. Well, steak lovers, now hear this! The Victoria’s Filet was so buttery ten­der, with all the juice and flavor locked right into that 9-ounce cut, that it exceeded any we’ve tasted at twice the price — an absolutely melt-in-you-mouth filet!
     To accompany dinner, the Outback serves a wide selection of domestic and Australian beer and wine in a moderate price range, and some fun specialty drinks include the Gold Coast Rita, Down Under Rita and Wallaby Darned.
     The hospitality of the Outback Steakhouse really shined through. We noticed several uninvited parties appeared at the pre-opening dinner party, and they were still served and treated graciously by the owners and the staff.  The Outback’s commitment to the community was demonstrated even before their official opening by holding a gala benefiting the Girl Scouts of Maui.
     Enough kind words cannot be said for this new eatery. One feels the positive energy when stepping through the door. It has a lively, warm neighborhood feel to it.
     “Catch-you-later, Mate.” Call 665-1822.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 5/13/1998 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without
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