Experience elegance at the Gardenia Court Restaurant

Island dining with Helen Reed

KAPALUA — Dignified gracefulness and restrained beauty of style is how Webster’s Dictionary defines “elegance.” These terms are almost an understatement describing the elegance Kapalua Bay Hotel imparts. The hotel and its amenities represent tasteful sophistication in its purest form, and this graciousness encom­passes the Gardenia Court Restaurant.
     The outside landscape extends indoors at the Gardenia Court. Lush tropical foliage and a babbling brook filled with colorful koi make this restaurant, located in the heart of the hotel, a relaxing and romantic spot for dining. Furthermore, the extraordi­nary cuisine is accented by panoramic views of the ocean and the neighboring islands of Molokai and Lanai. Talk about heaven on Earth, this is the place!
     It certainly would take an accom­plished chef to maintain the high level of excellence the Gardenia Court Restaurant is famous for, but under the leadership of gifted Chef de Cuisine Anthony Edington, culinary treasures seem to appear with an air of casualness.
     Born and raised in the San Francisco Bay area, Edington gained his formal training and achieved the Grand Diplome d’Etudes Culinaires from La Varenne in Paris, France.
     “I moved to France for a year to study and cook, and I loved it,” said Edington enthusiastically. “I used to say it was the best year of my life. However, since I moved to Maui, now I say it was one of the best years of my life.”
     One could write volumes about Chef Edington’s cooking credentials, including Paris and working in the most elite restaurants in New York; Aspen, Colorado; and the 5-star, 5-diamond Four Seasons Clift Hotel in San Francisco. He was involved in the opening of four new restaurants and has experienced all aspects of restaurant operations, from name choice, kitchen design and control systems to the development of menus, staffing and training.
     “I was lured to Hawaii to work with Peter Merriman at his Waimea, Big Island restaurant,” he said. “Timing was such that help was needed at the opening of Hula Grill in Lahaina, so I worked there until I came to Kapalua Bay Hotel in 1995. After moving to Maui, I decided this is where I wanted to stay. I love it here and enjoy the restaurant business.
     Sampling Edington’s innova­tive cuisine is also an enjoyable experience. The robust Seafood Gumbo is a family secret that will appear again on the fall menu.   “My mother’s parents are from a small town across the lake from New
Orleans,” explained Edington. “My grandmother created this gumbo, and it was passed down to my mother, so I learned it from her. It’s a third generation recipe, and, of course, it’s secret.”
     A moat of gumbo in heavenly dark roux full of crab, shrimp, clams and baby scal­lops surrounding an island of rice is a whole meal in itself. The natural affinity of roux and rice delights the senses.
     The new February Italiano menu begins with an Ahi Carpaccio appetizer of yel­Iowfin tuna with virgin olive oil, lemon juice capers, shallots, parsley and tarragon a masterpiece. The ahi, pounded paper thin, resembles a transparent sauce on the white plate. It was so succu­lent, it seemed to melt in my mouth. Crisp house-made lavosh crackers accompanied the dish.
     Pancetta Prawns wrapped in Pancetta and crispy Lumpia Wrappers includes two savory dipping sauces.   You’ll really enjoy the authentic Italian soup, Zuppa di Polio con Tortelinni. It’s about as Italian as zuppa can be — brimming with diced veggies and cheese tortelinni in a clear chicken broth.
     The Mediterranean Salad with organic salad mix, roasted peppers, Nicoise olives and basil vinaigrette was delicious, served with piquant slices of goat cheese on crispy crostinis.
     For Italian seafood, dig into the Shutome Saltimbocca, Island Swordfish, Sage, Asiago Cheese wrapped in Proscuitto with fresh Tomato and Herb sauce. It’s an Italian pleaser.
     We reveled in the Opah Torino, an island version of a classic Italian dish. The Panko and Macadamia nut-crusted Moonfish with Oyster Mushrooms, Saffron and Tomatoe Coulis was perfectly cooked, incredibly tender and so flavorful it’s soul food personified!
     One can luxuriate in genuine italian pastas such as Fettuccine Carbonara and Linguine Puttanesca. On our next visit, we plan on ordering the Fusilli di Noci, made with walnuts and garlic in a gor­gonzola cheese sauce. It’s sure to be a winner, too.
     Dessert devotees will want to order the Italian favorite, Tiramisu with Vanilla Creme Anglaise, but we heartily recom­mend the Amaretto Lemon Cheesecake nestled on a nutty crust with slices of toasted Almond Brittle jutting from it —you’ll think you’re in cheesecake heaven!
     The Gardenia Court is renowned for their bountiful Sunday Brunch and Friday and Saturday Seafood Buffets. Every rich indulgence in classical cuisine is featured.
     The restaurant’s contribu­tion to the community involves the Maui Community College Internship program (where students work a three month period gaining hands-on experience in a hotel kitchen) and by donating food to needy charities.
     Experience for yourself the elegance of the Kapalua Bay Hotel by dining in the tropical splendor of the Gardenia Court Restaurant you’ll be really glad you did!
     For reservations, call 669-5656.

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 4/4/1999 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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