David Paul’s Lahaina Grill delivers culinary classics

Island dining with Helen Reed

LAHAINA — So, who hasn’t heard of the celebrated restaurant on busy Lahainaluna Road in the midst of Old L.ahaina Town? Of course, We’re speaking not only “celebrat­ed,” but the one that is also known for its culinary excellence and ele­gant, fine dining atmosphere. You’ve got it — David Paul’s Lahaina Grill!
     Don’t think all those superla­tives are exag­gerated.   One dining experience at David Paul’s Lahaina Grill will confirm that you’ve had an adventure into haute cuisine where dishes are as distinctive as they are delicious.
     And while David is busy operating his stunning new restau­rant on Oahu, David Paul’s Diamond Head Grill, Chef de Cuisine Tom Selman is the master in charge of maintaining David Paul’s legendary repu­tation in Lahaina.
     “I love working with David. He gives me total freedom to change the menu,” said Chef Selman. “We both have the passion and desire to create culinary classics.”
     Born in Alexandria, Virginia, Chef Selman attended the University of Idaho before focusing on a culinary career.
     “I always had a love for fine food and developed a passion for what the food could be and what could be done with it,” said Selman.
“In Florida and Philadelphia, I trained under some great old-time European chefs who also were dedicated to devel­oping fine cuisine.”
    Before coming to Maui, Chef Selman held every position from cook to sous chef in East Coast country clubs, resorts and five-star restaurants, and he brings more than 30 years of culinary experience to David Paul’s Lahaina Grill.
    “I had been coming to the islands for years and always wanted to live here so working at David Paul’s made it a reality,” be said, smiling. “I’m a very lucky person, getting paid to do what I love to do, creating food to please the palate and the senses.”
     We felt very lucky, too, as we Sat down to enjoy an array of exquisite menu items, each served on dazzling dishes, cobalt blue, ruby red, silver gray and splendid designer plates — a stellar presentation.
     The Sashimi Sampler with black pep­per ahi and hamachi yellow tail snapper served on a bed of fresh Kula greens with roasted pepper vinaigrette and truffle oil was simply delirious.
     “I’m very particular about the ahi I buy,” said Selman. “We buy only number one sashimi grade ahi, and we use Tamari with the sashimi. It’s a 150-year-old Japanese soy sauce.”
     The hearts of Romaine Caesar Salad is still one of the finest, as it was years ago when David Paul’s first opened.
     “We started using just the heart of baby romaine from Upcountry for the Caesar salad,” Selman explained. “It makes it taste even more crispy fresh."
     Fresh mozzarella made in Italy from the milk of water buffalo graced the Hana Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad that included shaved shallots, truffle oil and truffle vinegar. Unlike the dry variety found in local markets, this mozzarella was moist and creamy and the Hana tomatoes like “real” tomatoes!
     If you’ve never ordered the Eggplant Napoleon, it’s time you tried it. Another original from the early ‘90s, it consists of layers of tender grilled eggplant, smoked mozzarella, diced Maui onions, mush­rooms, olives and roasted peppers served with a scrumptious tomato-balsamic vinaigrette that is so smooth, topped with shaved Asiago cheese. It’s a “must-try.”
     “We used to serve it hot but the indi­vidual flavors were lost, whereas serving it cold each ingredient is discernible,” Selman said.
     Speaking of flavors, try the new Signature Dish, Mustard Crusted Salmon with wild salmon from the San Juan Islands in the Pacific Northwest, encrust­ed in toasted brown and black mustard seeds and black pepper corns. It is then dusted with rice flour and bread crumbs and seared to succulent perfection.  It’s served with spinach, mashed potatoes, caramelized Maui onions and a terrific Horseradish Beurre Blanc surrounding the entrée — WOW! You won’t be disappointed.
     There is a new twist for duck lovers! Sample the Kalua Duck, another signa­ture dish, with reduced plum wine-duck sauce, fresh veg­etables and a “Lundberg” Rice that consists of wild rice, brown rice, long grain, bismotti, barley and grains.  For the heavenly smoky fla­vor, the duck breast is smoked over macadamia nut shells and cinnamon wood, then sliced and presented in a puddle of plum wine sauce on half of the plate with the duck leg topping the rice on the other half of the plate. The leg is so tender it absolutely falls off the bone.
     The plum wine-duck sauce was just incredible. As we scooped up every last drop, we were reminded that all their sauces are made from stock — duck, lamb, chicken, veal, lobster and fish fume. Small wonder their sauces are sensational.
     The menu is just loaded with intriguing choices, including Tequila Shrimp and Firecracker Rice, Kona Coffee Roasted Rack of Lamb, Cilantro Pork Tenderloin, and Lobster Lasagna with Black Pepper Truffle Pasta.
     “I have a fine crew in the kitchen and Sons Chef Arnulfo Gonzalez is a really great asset,” said Selman.  ”It’s a pleasure to work with them..
     Please, don’t start your diet until after you sample the toothsome desserts creat­ed by talented Pastry Chefs Viktoria Daniel and Trudy Coffin.
     One bite of the silky smooth Strawberry Margarita Cheesecake, and you must devour the whole thing! Made with Gold Tequila, fresh strawberries, tangy lime, rich cream cheese and served with strawberry sauce, lime curd and fresh berries, this is one scrumptious dessert. But not to worry about calories — it is only about 3 inches round, so it’s not like polishing off a whole cake!
     Berry fanciers would enjoy the Triple Berry Pie with a luscious triple berry fill­ing — raspberries, blueberries and black currants encased in a flaky butter crust, served on a cloud of whipped cream with a drizzle of berry sauce.
     Chocolate fans will go outta-their-­minds with the Chocolate Truffle Tartlette surrounding a rich dark chocolate filling, nutty biscotti chunks and white milk chocolate with a chocolate marble shell. Served with a truffle and a sweet berry sauce, this titillating tartlette is so sublime you won’t want to share it with anyone.
     If you cannot decide which dessert to order, try the David Paul Sampler that offers a miniature selection of many of their most popular delicacies. It’s a fun way to climax your culinary adventure.
     Feel free to wander around and study the spectacular art of Maui’s Jan Kasprzycki adorning the walls along with a few of the numerous awards David has won over the years.
     David Paul contributes to the commu­nity in a big way by donating time, food-and gift certificates to various fund-raisers; supporting the Maui Inland Hockey Association and other groups; and assisting troubled youth from Lahaina House by offering them employment.
     You must experience for yourself the bright, bold flavors of Chef Tom Selman and Executive Chef David Paul Johnson’s award-winning New American Cuisine at David Paul’s Lahaina Grill, where the ser­vice is impeccable, the dishes incomparable, and your evening will surely be unfor­gettable.
     For reservations call 667-5117.
     Pau for now...

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 5/12/1999 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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