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Castaway Cafe is a hidden treasure on Kaanapali Beach

 

Island dining with Helen Reed

KAANAPALI — Have you discovered any hidden treas­ures lately? Well, we just did! Tucked away on the northwest shore on one of Maui’s finest beaches is a secluded hideaway, aptly called the Castaway.
     Fronting the shimmering Pacific and surrounded by palms and sea grape trees, Castaway Cafe is a treasure chest filled with culinary jewels at attrac­tive prices.
     “Our concept is for folks to have a great meal at a great price, so everyone can afford to come here,” said Owner Gary Bush.
     In the computer business for 23 years, with nine years spent in hi-tech at Kennedy Space Center, Bush arrived on Maui six years ago.
     “When I first visited the island, I loved it so much, I changed occupations by buying the restaurant so I could live here,” he said, laughing. “Our chef, Tami Ritchey, is just the best there is. We’re so lucky to have her.”
     A graduate of Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon, Chef Ritchey has been in the restaurant business for the past 23 years, with 11 years spent in Key West, Florida. She was Chef de Cuisine at the beautiful Caneel Bay Resort on St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands.
     “I’ve lived on islands most of my life and love to be surrounded by the ocean. Maui is a beautiful island, full of friendly people,” she said.
     Raised in Newport, Oregon, Tami began her culinary career at an early age.
     “I began cooking on my father’s com­mercial fishing boats for him and his crew when I was about 10 years old —and they never complained,” she laughed. “I had the privilege of growing up eating lots of fresh seafood, and my mother was great, preparing it in so many different ways. It’s a natural that I became a cook.”
     At age 14, Ritchey began working in a seafood restaurant in Newport. “They let me make salads. It was the safest course to start with.”
     Well, she has come a long way since her salad-making days. The textures, col­ors, aromas and flavors of the dishes we tasted just mingled with perfection.
     We started with Castaway’s sweetly succulent Coconut Shrimp, tossed in fresh coconut and served with a sweet and spicy peanut sauce.
     “We’re known for our Coconut Shrimp,” said Bush. “We sell more than you can shake a stick at.”
     Just want to eat pupus? Don’t miss the Calamari served with lemon-garlic aioli — it’s tender, meaty and filling!
     “We buy the whole calamari, slice it thin and marinate it in garlic, olive oil and oregano, then flash-fry it one sec­ond,” Ritchey explained.
     Or order the fully-packed South of the Border Quesadillas, a dried tomato tortilla stuffed with chicken, black beans and cheddar cheese. It was served with a zesty Spinach Rice and Pico de Gallo salsa that we cooled down with a fruity Rosenblum Zinfandel.
     Soup lovers will cherish the delicate and creamy Clam Chowder, so rich, smooth and loaded with really tender, meaty clams. Served once or twice a week, it’s so full of pizzazz you’ll want to order another bowl. Piping hot sourdough French bread accompanies it and, paired with their excel­lent Caesar Salad, it makes a meal in itself!
     With the pupus, soup and salad, we enjoyed an unobtrusive La Terres Chardonnay; a subtle, mature Edna Vaddy Chardonnay; and a soft and delicate Raymond Estates Chardonnay.
     Add to that a crisp Rosemount Estate Reisling, an elegant Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio and a mellow Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc! Sound like a liquid diet? I must explain...
     A very clever innovation Gary has initi­ated for his guests are his “Wine Samplers.” Three 3-ounce glasses of vari­ous wines are served for only $5.75
     “The Wine Sampler allows the experi­enced wine drinker a chance to try wines from various wine makers, and the novice a chance to taste the difference between the wines,” Bush explained. “I find it’s a real pleasure to test fine wines, so with these samples our guests can enjoy them, too. I want to keep prices reasonable so everyone can enjoy a bottle of wine with their meal.”
     Wine connoisseurs can order from the Castaway Cafe Cellar C-lections with wines from small boutique wineries. With prices ranging from $15.50 to $146.50 a bottle, there’s a wine for every wallet.
     Their extensive wine list won the Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” in 1998 for having “one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world!” That’s the world, mind you!
     Bush’s father, Dwight, makes the hand­some wooden wine racks in Homeworth, Ohio, a town of about 110 residents.
     Continuing with Chef Ritchey’s excel­lent entrees, Tami absolutely shines with her signature dish, Panang Seafood Curry, loaded with shrimp, sea scallops and fresh fish and simmered in a perfect­ly spicy Thai Curry with coconut milk. Served on a bed of the freshest spinach with a mound of white rice, the presenta­tion of pale yellow curry and emerald green spinach was striking, and the vel­vety curry sauce totally titillated the taste buds.
     Local fishermen bring in the Fresh Catch of the Day, and on the day of our visit, the fresh fish was ono, bluenose snapper and monchong. Guests have a choice of three preparations: Blackened with Cajun Spices, Grilled with a Lemon Caper Butter, or Macadamia-crusted with a tropical fruit salsa. We tested all three preparations, and all were superb.
     There are so many enticing menu choices. Hawaiian Style Cordon Bleu is marinated chicken breasts stuffed with fresh pineapple, ham and Swiss cheese, then rolled in coconut and oven baked, served with a lemon butter sauce.
     Or try the Tequila Spiked Shrimp —fresh jumbo shrimp sauteed with salsa fresca, flambeed with tequila and finished with an avocado butter.
     Dinner prices are exceptional, rang­ing from a reasonable $12.95 to $19.95, and two pupu and dinner specials are offered nightly.
     Brought back by popular demand is their Two For One Pasta Night, every Tuesday from 5 to 9 p.m. With seven famous sauces to choose from, you better arrive early to get a seat!
     Castaway Cafe does it all, open from 7:30 a.m. until 9 p.m.
     Discover for yourself the hidden treas­ure by the sea called Castaway Cafe, located on the beach at the Maui Kaanapali Villas Resort. Call 661-9091.
     Pau for now...  

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 6/9/1999 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without
notice.

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