Island dining with Helen Reed

KAANAPALI — How many remember Waikiki 40 years ago?
     Don the Beachcombers, Trader Vics, restaurants filled with tikis, fish nets, ukuleles and other memorabilia?
     Well, it’s time for Maui’s best-kept secret to go public — time to have a nos­talgic journey and relive the Hawaii of the past. The Royal Lahaina’s new retro restaurant, appropriately called Beachcombers, is old Waikiki and is as authentic as it can be. And fun, too!
     Located near the entrance to the Royal Lahaina’s Luau Gardens Beachcombers resembles an old Polynesian long-house, surround-ed by sand, a surfboard and lifeguard stand with the interior replete with genuine Hawaiiana of the Pan Am era.
     Complementing the sincere aloha from Manager Weslee Chinen and his friendly Executive Chef John Lopianetzky.
     With so many “mod­ern” restaurants on Maui, the old Hawaii is rare, and it is what tourists still want to experience. You’ll find it at its finest at Beachcombers.
     John began his culinary career at age 14 working for the famed Henricis Hotel chain in Chicago. After completing his training at Triton College in Illinois, he pursued a career with the Sheraton Hotels, working his way to to executive chef at California’s Newport Beach Sheraton at the age of 21.
     After a brief visit to Hawaii, John’s love for the islands brought him back to work as executive chef at the Pacific Beach Hotel in Waikiki. As the company staff are retro art prints, shell-covered lamps over each table, ships’ wheels and lots of bamboo.  Big picture windows face a b a m b oo fence with tiki torches illuminat­ing a tropi­cal garden, where guests dine to the soft I 950s island strains of Martin Denny and Arthur Lyman musical soundtracks.
     “It’s Hawaiian hokey, but everyone loves it,” laughed Royal Lahaina expanded, John was promoted to corpo­rate chef of three hotel properties.
     For the past seven years, the Royal Lahaina has been fortunate to have John oversee its elegant Royal Ocean Terrace restaurant, the famous Royal Lahaina Luau, and now Beachcombers, which just reopened in January after a year-long extensive renovation.
     “Our whole idea when we reopened was to recreate the Waikiki of the ‘40s and ‘50s, and our menu was designed for the sharing of the food,” he said.
     With such generous servings, from pupus to desserts, we found almost every dish was sufficient for two people.
     We started with the eye-boggling PiYi (have your camera ready for this one) a hollow pineapple filled with pineapple chunks, rum and passion fruit, all blended into a smoothie and set atop dry ice for a dramatic smoking effect that wows every-one within seating distance. Served with two straws, it tastes superb!
     Next we shared the Beachcombers Sampler presented beautifully on a trian­gle plate — three exotic pupus, includ­ing Fresh Ahi Tempura California Rolls made with king crab and avocado; plump Island-Style Crab Cakes over mesclun greens with papaya caper sauce; and Crispy Philo Prawns Molokai, with the prawns sticking out of a pineapple slice resembling sails on a Polynesian voyaging canoe.
     Splendid dipping sauces of Watermelon Sweet Chili and Dijon Soy Beurre Blanc accompanied the trio.
     “Our Beachcombers Sampler is really popular,” said Chef John. “It’s our num­ber one seller. This way, people can try a little of everything.”
     Soup fanciers will love the Asparagus, King Crab and Lobster Soup with Reggiano Foccacia Crouton. It’s smooth, elegant and so picturesque with streaks of Red Pepper Cream and freshly shaved Reggiano floating on the delicious, pale green bisque.
     Savior the Beachcombers Salad that won second place in the annual “A Taste of Lahaina” competition. Just one taste of the greens tossed with garlic peppercorn dressing and you’ll know why it won.
     Guests who want to sample three of Maui’s freshest and most sought-after fish should order the Island Trilogy consisting of Opakapaka with Macadamia Butter, Mahi Mahi with Papaya Caper Sauce, and Seared Ahi with Chile Soy Vinaigrette —delicious and presentation-perfect.
     Although every item on the attractive menu is meticulously prepared — with both their Olala Lamb Chops and Thai Salmon Shioyaki having won first place in two ‘Taste” events — I heartily recommend a couple of “Meant-for-Two” entrees.
     The flawless Seafood Platter consists of plump, moist medallions of cold water lobster; award-winning, soul-satisfying Seared Thai Salmon; and Center Cut King Crab Legs — a trio of the best seafood!
     The second is a “Died-and-Gone-to-Culinary-Heaven” combination and an outstanding value. The Prime-Graded Filet Mignon and Half a Kona Live Lobster stuffed with crab meat and wild mushrooms is immense! Either the filet or lobster alone would be completely satisfying, but combining the two is incredible!
     Don’t miss Pastry Chef Geraldine Reyes’ Dessert Sampler, a trio of dazzling desserts — a staggeringly rich Keaau Banana and Peanut Butter Pie with Caramel Sauce topped with Macadamia Nut Brittle; the Chocolate Chocolate Cake, a flourless indulgence; and the beautiful lavender Molokai Sweet Potato Cheese Cake with Graham Cracker Mac Nut Crust, Bourbon Cream, Haupia and a Chocolate Drizzle. It’s only $9.50 for all three.
     A marvelous family event can be shared at the 5 p.m. dinner and magic show presented by the talented Kenn Serrano, who juggles and makes various shapes with balloons hearts, butterflies, and in less than three minutes, an adorable teddy bear perched on a “Hardly” Davidson bike, complete with hubcaps! How does he do that?
     A 20 percent dis­count is offered for guests seated between 4 and 6 p.m. If 5 p.m. is too early, Kenn’s show is repeated at 9:15 p.m., but in between shows Kenn wanders from table to table delighting guests with close-up, slight-of-hand magic.
     All-you-can-eat Prime Rib and King Crab dinners are offered every Friday and Saturday from 8 to 10 p.m.. for only $29.95, including Beachcombers’ award ­winning salad, freshly baked sour dough bread, baked potatoes and fresh veggies.
     Another fine value is the Beachcombers Luau Package. Since Beachcombers is only open Friday and Saturday nights, instead of dining at the weekend luau, guests are invited to try the Beachcombers Experience — din­ing in Beachcombers, and then being escorted to the luau to enjoy the show from reserved seats.
     The package includes an open bar of top-of-the-line premium well drinks, the spectacular PiYi drink, followed with the Beachcombers Sampler, choice of enticing entrees and the delicious dessert trio. If that isn’t enough, the open bar continues at the luau.
     The award winning Royal Lahaina Polynesian Show features dancers, musicians, a fire-knife dance and Samoan, Tahitian and Hawaiian per­formances from Maui’s past to present. It just doesn’t get any better or any more Hawaiian than this. The open bar, dinner and luau show combined is a bar­gain at $85 each.
     Now that the secret is out, take a senti­mental trip down memory lane to the Waikiki of yesteryear to Beachcombers, right here on Maui!
     For reservations, call 661-9119.
     Pau for now...

Reprint courtesy of Lahaina News 9/8/1999 (www.westmaui.com)
Prices, specials, and business hours are subject to change without notice.

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